This is the era of statue removal and the systematic reinterpretation of American history. It’s all good, I believe, except for the excesses and historical ignorance of some iconoclasts, who would prefer to be righteous than to understand the nuances and deep complexities of American history.
I’ve been to the Little Bighorn perhaps 10 times in my life. I made this visit this time because Steinbeck did, on October 13, 1960. I’m not sure why he made the detour. He wasn’t much interested in historic sites at this point in his career. And what he wrote about the battlefield is cursory. I quote the passage in its entirety:
“At Custer we made a side trip south to pay our respects to General Custer and Sitting Bull on the battlefield of Little Big Horn. I don’t suppose there is an American who doesn’t carry Remington’s painting of the last defense of the center column of the 7th Cavalry in his head. I removed my hat in memory of brave men, and Charley saluted in his own manner but I thought with great respect.”
That’s it! Again, Charley lifts his leg and steals the show.
At the end of my time at the national monument, I visited in the Native American semi-subterranean circle. It amazed me how quiet it was in the circle, how everyone’s voice dropped a few decibels, and how perfectly modulated the interpretive panels were.
You can watch a brief video of my reflections above.
Over the next few months, Clay is shadowing Steinbeck’s 10,000-mile trek around the USA (and making a few detours of his own). Clay’s expedition is a central part of LTA’s big initiative to explore the country and take the pulse of America as it approaches its 250th birthday. Be sure to follow Clay’s adventures here and on Facebook — and subscribe to our newsletter.